A FOOD TRAIL

Beef Tartare at Hell of the North.

A restaurant with a 94% approval rating on Urbanspoon is no fluke. This beef tartare was unlike any that I have tasted across Melbourne. It arrived in a deep crimson and glistening circular patty, sans egg yolk, and was served with baguette crisps. The beef was lean and diced finely - none of that fatty minced unknown cuts of meat-stuff. Whilst most beef tartares are rich, bordering slimy, and can only be enjoyed / stomached in small portions; this version retained a lean, clean, sort of edge. There was a zingy undercut to the traditional richness of the French flavour, with the bits of onions and capers cutting through the meatiness of the mixture, which was well-seasoned but not overly so.

Definitely earned a double thumbs-up from a beef tartare non-enthusiast such as myself. Also thumbs up for the space and decor - beautiful understated front and exposed bricks interior. The menu is seasonal, the wine-list thoughtful, the cocktails unusual (in a good way), but the highlight was the friendly, charming and non-pretentious service that is rare amongst these Fitzroy-Collingwood hipster culinary institutions. Finally, a worthy mention goes to the garlic-infused olive oil that came with the bread - a pleasant and delicious surprise.